Hot House

Los Dos Molinos moves into downtown Phoenix

By Janet Perez

Not all Mexican food is created equally. There are as many different ways to prepare a dish as there are states in Mexico — or even the United States for that matter. What’s considered “right” or “best” depends purely on taste.

With that said, I will now proclaim that the Mexican food I grew up with is the best. Seriously, I do have a soft spot in my heart for the super spicy Mexican food I ate while growing up at the corner of Texas, New Mexico and the Mexican state of Chihuahua. So when I moved out here from El Paso, Texas, I was a little disappointed in the Mexican food I found in the Valley. The Sonoran-style dishes were savory, but they just didn’t have that kick I loved. Then a friend — herself an El Paso transplant — took me to Los Dos Molinos. I was hooked and happy.
Los Dos Molinos specializes in New Mexico-style Mexican food, which means hot, hot and hotter. And it really is just about the food. The menu hasn’t changed in years and the decor usually falls just this side of kitsch, but who cares? Made from family recipes using Hatch, N.M. chiles, the chile dishes are make-you-cry-but-can’t-stop-eating hot. For those who can’t stand the heat, Los Dos also offers an array of tasty dishes that are chile free. Oh yeah, and don’t forget those powerful margaritas.

But don’t get the idea that this is a humble, little food joint. Los Dos has been featured on the Food Network and is a repeat winner in a variety of “best of” lists. Words such as “institution” and “legendary” are often used to describe Los Dos.

Unfortunately, for years there were only two Los Dos restaurants in the Valley, one in Mesa and the other in South Phoenix (the other two locations are in Springerville and, surprisingly, Manhattan). But because we are Los Dos fans — and we can be found in the most surprising places — are almost cultish in our devotion, we don’t think twice about waiting as long as two hours to be seated. Still, I was thrilled to hear that another Los Dos had opened in the Valley, this one in downtown Phoenix at the Azteca Plaza on Washington Street, just a few blocks from Chase Field.

Cheryl Chavez, who runs the restaurants with her mother, Victoria, and other family members, admits they didn’t need the new location. In fact, they usually have more business than they can handle. However, when a family member offered them the opportunity to get into the downtown location, the family couldn’t resist. The new restaurant is located along the light-rail line and a stone’s throw from office buildings and new condos. As the area becomes more genteel, Chavez says they are considering opening the downtown location on Sundays, something the family hasn’t done at any of their other restaurants in years.

While most new restaurants have to build a clientele, the new Los Dos had them lining up outside the door within weeks. Chavez says her lunch crowd is made up of area workers who used to trek to the South Phoenix location. When I went to the new location for lunch recently, I saw construction workers, suits and cubicle dwellers co-existing happily. And why shouldn’t we be happy? There’s a new Los Dos Molinos in town.

www.losdosmolinosaz.com