Switching from a standard toilet to a bidet setup is one of those home upgrades that sounds more complicated than it actually is. For most people, the whole process takes less than an hour and requires nothing more than basic tools. The tricky part is usually just figuring out which type of bidet is right for your bathroom before you buy anything. This guide walks you through the whole thing, from deciding what to get to using it for the first time.

Step 1: Decide what type of bidet you want

Before anything else, you need to know what you’re shopping for. There are three main options, each at a different price point and complexity level.

A bidet attachment is the most basic option — a simple device that fits between your existing toilet seat and bowl and connects to your water supply. No electricity needed, no major installation. These start around $30 and are a good entry point if you want to try bidet functionality without committing to much.

A bidet seat (sometimes called a washlet) replaces your existing toilet seat entirely and plugs into a standard electrical outlet. This is the most popular upgrade for most homes. A TOTO washlet, for example, gives you heated water, adjustable pressure, a warm air dryer, and a heated seat — all in a seat that installs on your existing toilet. These typically run between $200 and $600 depending on the features.

A bidet toilet combo replaces your entire toilet with an all-in-one smart unit. This is the high-end option, best suited for full bathroom renovations, and usually involves professional installation.

For most people doing a first-time upgrade, a bidet seat hits the right balance — significant improvement in comfort and hygiene, without the cost or complexity of replacing the whole toilet.

Step 2: Check your toilet measurements

Not all bidet seats fit all toilets, so before ordering anything, spend two minutes taking measurements.

First, identify your bowl shape. Toilet bowls are either round (roughly circular) or elongated (oval-shaped). Most bidet seats are available in both, and it matters — the wrong shape won’t fit properly. To check, measure from the bolt holes at the back of the seat to the front edge of the bowl. Under 16.5 inches is typically round; over that is elongated.

Next, check your rough-in measurement — the distance from the wall behind the toilet to the center of the drain at the base. Most US toilets are 12 inches, but some older homes have 10-inch or 14-inch rough-ins. This only matters if you’re replacing the full toilet, not just the seat.

Finally, if you’re getting an electric bidet seat, check whether there’s a grounded electrical outlet within reach of the toilet — usually within three to four feet. If there isn’t one, you’ll need an electrician to add one before your seat arrives.

Step 3: Gather your tools

For a standard bidet seat installation, you’ll need very little. In most cases: an adjustable wrench or pliers, a flathead and Phillips screwdriver, a towel or small bucket (for residual water in the supply line), and optionally a tape measure and pencil. That’s genuinely it for most installs.

Step 4: Turn off the water supply and flush

Locate the water shut-off valve behind or beside your toilet — it’s a small oval or football-shaped valve on the supply line. Turn it clockwise until it stops. Then flush the toilet once to empty the tank. Keep a towel handy because a small amount of water may remain in the supply line when you disconnect it.

Step 5: Remove your existing toilet seat

Look at the back of your toilet bowl where the seat is attached. There will be two bolts — usually covered by plastic caps that pop off with a flathead screwdriver. Depending on the model, the nuts underneath may be plastic (hand-tighten) or require a wrench. Remove them, and the old seat lifts straight off. Set it aside.

Step 6: Install the mounting plate

Most bidet seats come with a mounting plate that attaches to the toilet using the same bolt holes as your old seat. Slide the bolts through the plate and into the holes, then tighten the nuts — firmly, but don’t overtighten or you risk cracking the porcelain. The plate should feel stable and not shift when you press on it.

Step 7: Connect the water supply

Your bidet seat will include a T-valve (also called a T-adapter) that tees off from the existing water supply line to feed both the toilet tank and the bidet. Disconnect the supply line from the bottom of the tank, attach the T-valve in its place, then reconnect the supply line to the bottom of the T-valve and attach the bidet’s supply hose to the side port. Hand-tighten everything, then give each connection a quarter-turn with a wrench.

Turn the water supply back on slowly and watch each connection point for drips. If you see any, tighten gently until they stop.

Step 8: Attach the bidet seat to the mounting plate

Slide the bidet seat onto the mounting plate from the front until it clicks into position. Most seats lock in with a simple sliding mechanism and release with a button — you’ll hear or feel it click when it’s seated correctly. Give it a gentle tug to confirm it’s secure.

Step 9: Plug in and power up

If you have an electric bidet seat, plug it into the grounded outlet near your toilet. Most seats have a small indicator light that shows they’re powered on. Check the user manual to run a brief self-test cycle if available — many TOTO and similarly equipped seats will run through their cleaning routine automatically on first use.

Step 10: Test everything before you call it done

With the water supply on and the seat powered, run through each function before using it for real. Test the wash, adjust the pressure and temperature if your model supports it, check the dryer, and confirm the seat heating is working. Check underneath one more time for any slow drips at the supply connections.

Most issues at this stage are minor — a slightly loose connection or a setting that needs adjusting. Give everything five minutes of observation before considering the job complete.

A few things worth knowing going in

Water temperature on entry-level seats is often cold at first, then warms up — if consistent warm water matters to you, look for a seat with a tank or instant-heat system rather than just a cold-water attachment. Pressure settings vary significantly between models, so if you’re sensitive, check reviews for the specific unit before buying. And if your bathroom sees a lot of use from multiple people, look for models with multiple user presets — they make a bigger difference than you’d expect.

The whole process sounds involved on paper, but most people complete it start to finish in 45 minutes or less. Once it’s done, it tends to fall squarely in the category of “can’t believe I waited this long.”